Nature

Why Weleda does not use synthetics in skincare

5 FAQs about the use of silicones in skincare

Consumers are concerned about the origin of the ingredients in their skincare products and their impact on the environment. When it comes to natural and organic skincare, we should think about what is inside the product to really understand a product’s claim to be "natural" or "organic", explains Dr. Mark Smith.

Synthetics in skincare: 5 questions and answers

Microplastics mainly refer to solid particles that are smaller than five millimetres in size. In conventional skincare products, non-biodegradable plastics are often used as ingredients, both in solid and liquid form. Dr. Mark Smith of NATRUE about the use of silicones in skincare.

#1 What do synthetic ingredients such as silicones do in skincare?

Dr. Mark Smith: Silicones are commonly used because they are inert, meaning inactive chemically. In skincare, silicone-based ingredients perform different functions. They can be used as an emulsifier to help combine other substances, as an emollient to soften or smooth the skin surface, or as a surfactant to give better distribution or application of the product when used. They can also help control the thickness of a skincare product's formulation, help hold or retain moisture, or reduce static, for instance in hair care products to avoid frizzing. Furthermore, silicones are relatively inexpensive ingredients.

#2 Are silicones liquids or solids, or are they available in different forms?

M.S. The term "plastic" commonly means a polymer that can be moulded into a solid object like a microbead, for example. For skincare and personal care use, silicone-based ingredients are commonly liquid polymers.

#3 Are silicones harmful to skin and hair?

M.S. Unlike some natural or naturally-derived alternatives, there can be a concern that the short-term skincare or sensory fix does not benefit the user in the long term. For example, silicones smooth the hair and make it feel glossy, but can accumulate in the hair over time, leaving it lank and heavy. As inert substances, they cannot nourish the skin.

#4 What effects do silicones have on our environment?

M.S. Some silicones are readily biodegradable but others can persist in the environment, accumulate and be toxic. The factors influencing whether a silicone will biodegrade or not can also depend on where it ends up. For instance, on land one type of silicone may be broken down more easily but the same may not be true in our waterways or it may not be biodegradable at all. To this end, for cosmetic product use silicones have recently raised concern due to their impact on the aquatic environment, especially since silicones can be found in rinse-off products.

#5 What are the ingredient names to look out for on the INCI* listing on the pack?

M.S. Silicones are synthetic polymers made up of silicon, oxygen and other elements. In cosmetics, there are more than 300 ingredients that are made from or contain silicones that may be used. For instance, these polymers may be present in a purely synthetic form, or as a combination of a synthetic polymer connected to natural substances. Commonly you can identify a silicone-based skincare ingredient by the ending of the word on the ingredients (INCI) list on the back of the product packaging, such as "-cone" or "-siloxane".

Examples of common ingredients:

  • dimethicone
  • cyclomethicone
  • polysilicone
  • cyclopentasiloxane

*INCI = International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients

Certified natural cosmetics with the NATRUE seal do not contain any microplastics or silicones.

Natural alternatives to silicones in NATRUE certified skincare

Skincare products bearing the NATRUE seal do not contain any microplastics or silicones. In order for natural cosmetics to be NATRUE-certified, their ingredients must be readily biodegradable and made from natural, non-GMO, renewable sources, and manufactured using environmentally-friendly processes.

Weleda products contain no microplastics or silicones

Not only do the microplastic beads present in body scrubs pose a problem for the environment. So do synthetic polymers (also called "liquid plastics") such as silicones, which can often be found in face cream, toothpaste and shower gel. After being rinsed down the drain, microbeads and other plastic ingredients end up in our waterways and oceans, polluting the environment. 
Weleda natural skincare do not contain any microplastics or silicones. Weleda Birch Body Scrub, for instance, contains natural wax beads made of carnauba and beeswax. The tiny granules are especially gentle on the skin and do not harm the environment.

Learn more about microplastics and check if your skincare products contain them here: www.beatthemicrobead.org

 

Author

Dr. Mark Smith

Director General of NATRUE

Mark Smith graduated with a M.Chem (Hons.) degree in chemistry and an interdisciplinary PhD. between chemistry and genetics. Since 2016 he is Director of NATRUE where he takes the lead role in all political, regulatory and scientific affairs – advocacy, research and label.